Saturday 13th October 2012 - Day 10 - Irkutsk to Listvyanka

We woke up and got ready to disembark the train in a blur. In fact we were an hour early so we waited and had a coffee and listened to the trendy band next door playing their ABBA music! We pulled up at our station and saw the sign saying minus 3 degrees outside when our train was plus 21 degrees inside so we wrapped up warm for the 24 degree temperature drop. We got off and met our lady guide who spoke very good English. She showed us to her 4x4 and we piled in with the heaters on.

She drove us through Irkutsk and on the main road to Listvyanka which is a lovely village on the shores of Lake Baikal. She advised us that it started snowing here two days ago and it was the first snow fall of the year so we were very lucky. As it was the first snow fall many drivers were unprepared as they had not yet changed to their winter tyres, fortunately she had already last week. We drove on the undulating road to the Lake very slowly as cars were skidding about all over the place.

Arriving at Listvyanka we drove along the shore line of the what looked like a sea. The lake is the worlds deepest lake at 1,637m and it contains nearly one fifth of the worlds fresh unfrozen water more than north America’s five great lakes combined. We pulled up at a lovely looking wooden chalet that smelt of pine wood and log fires. We dumped our stuff in our room and went for the free coffee and biscuits that were complimentary and sat in front of the roaring log fire.

Resisting the urge to snooze, we showered and put all our clothes on and braced ourselves to walk along the Lake front. It was still snowing and there was a biting wind coming off the water. We got our Russian hats out of hiding and was excited to wear them without being laughed at! We walked along the water front to the post office that we was told was the only place in town with the internet and it was closed! We walked on taking photos and enjoying having a wander around souvenir shops for a post card and the fish market. We stopped in a restaurant for a hot mutton and potato soup that was really lovely just like my Gran used to make. It warmed our cockles enough to keep walking. Jon also had a shot of Vodka or three which warmed him up!

We wandered until such point when we were busting for the loo and yet again could not find a restaurant or coffee shop that had wifi or a loo! Eventually we came across some public loos but they were nasty! We headed back to the hotel then read in the guide book that the post office was open until 6pm and it was closed before for lunch only. So as it was 4pm now we hiked back into town only to find it was still shut! We gave up and walked along the lake front to find a pub when we bumped into Carla and Simon. They said they saw a café with internet so we followed them there for hot chocolate.

Unfortunately the internet was not working but the hot chocolate was delicious. Jon Stayed for another while I run back to the hotel to pick up my camera which had been left on charge and then returned to find him. This was probably a good couple of miles round trip which I had to jog in the snow and ice so as not to keep Jon waiting too long and for me to keep warm. We then went on an exploration adventure further and further along the lake front until we found a great pub/restaurant that had an English Menu and a pool table. We were frozen, had walked miles and it was so lovely and warm and inviting.

We had chicken with cheese and garlic and chips washed down by a beer or two. We went to play pool but it ended up being billiards which we had no idea of the rules so made up odds v evens, I won 3 - 2! But even I admit was lucky especially as the balls were physically bigger that the pockets themselves! As it was now pitch black, we were miles from the hotel and it was approaching 10pm ‘we splashed the boat out’ and got a taxi back to the seal show and walked up the hill to our hotel feeling the need to sing Christmas songs and all the dogs in the neighbourhood joined in. Back at the hotel we chatted with Carla in front of the log fire with a coffee and then bed. Our room is like a sauna so radiator off, window open to cool it down a touch, still at least the laundry I did earlier is now bone dry.