Tuesday 16th October 2012 - Day 13 - Ulaan Baatar to Terelj National Park

We arrived at Ulaan Baator station on time and it was cold! We met Chucka our guide and he said it was approx minus 15! As we stood at the station a freight train passed through blowing its whistle and was travelling fast, the wind it created nearly blew me away! We got in a 9 seat minibus and drove out of the capital city towards Terelj National Park where we are staying in a traditional wooden Ger for the night! As we drove 60km out of the city the tarmac road slowly turned into a dirt road with huge pot holes. At some points the driver decided to take the petrol station forecourt route rather than stick to the road!

The scenery turned from high rise buildings and pollution to plains and mountains with perfectly clear air and small Gers dotted about, some with fences around, some with outhouses and some alone in the middle of nowhere. The sun was rising behind the mountains and the stars started to disappear. We stopped at the highest point of our journey before travelling into the National Park which runs along a valley. We got out to take some photos and walk 3 times clockwise around a mound of stones to pay tribute to the Gods and add a pebble. We did not stop long as the wind chill up there must have dropped the temperature even further quite considerably.

We drove along the base of the valley for longer than we expected to. We kept passing small Ger settlements until we finally came across one all on its own up the side of the hill. We pulled in at about 8.30am and were welcomed by two adorable dogs. One was just a puppy and if I could bring her home with me I would, Kris and Cody would love her. We were shown to our own individual Ger and bent over to enter through the tiny door. The door is small so you have to bow to enter and they put a saint above the door. The heat nearly knocked us over it was like a sauna. They have had the fire burning inside and it was so cosy and just perfect!

There are 3 single beds with pillows filled with beads, women to the right and men to the left of the door. There is the central stove and a small table and two tiny stools. The décor is lovely, the wood is hand painted all colourful and the walls and ceiling are all padded and covered with satin sheets. There is lino on the floor and even a welcome mat… I never want to leave this place! There is snow all around and the valley has trees climbing the sides, it is just breathe taking. We were left to sleep for a couple of hours then went to the communal building to shower and have lunch at 1pm.

We were treated to a 3 course meal that was delicious with my favourite dish being a hearty bowl of mutton stew. By now the sun was shining and was providing more warmth, out of the wind the temperature was now zero degrees much better than minus 15! As I brushed my hair after the shower, the water was turning to ice on my brush and in my hair! We got in the bus and drove to turtle rock which as you guessed is a large rock in the shape of a turtle! We tried on the traditional pointed hat but it will not keep us warm like our Russian one so we did not purchase.

We then hiked up the side of one of the mountains to a Buddhist temple that was high up and providing a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains and valley below. The detailed décor of the temple was beautiful and the whole feel of the place was so tranquil and peaceful. It helped that we were the only people there which is one of the best things so far is that we are travelling at the end of the tourist season so nothing is overcrowded. On the hike up we had to cross a bridge to enlightenment and there was a carousel that you had to spin and with a pointer that stopped on a number between 1 and 150. This corresponded to a Buddhist quote that you are meant to read and meditate to.

Jon’s lucky number was 135 which said something along the lines of you treat your body badly as if it is a bag of urine! Mine was number 96 and it said something like you should expect bad karma if you do bad things. All over the temple were spinning drums that contained offerings to the Gods. You had to spin them all clockwise and make a wish. We also had to climb 100 steps up to the temple and with air being so thin this was a bit of a test. Back in the car we drove back past our camp and carried on a far way as the road seemed to get even worse.

We crossed through streams of water and ice and arrived at a local mans Ger where he had horses on his land. We were invited in for bread and milk curds washed down with hot mares milk. We sat in his Ger watching some boxing film until our horses were saddled up. We got on and started off on our trek of the local area. We slowly walked around the woods and though streams then picked up speed across the plains. Mine and Carla’s horses were led by the guide on his horse while Jon and Simon were left to their own devices. Jon looked quite at home on his horse who appeared to be doing exactly what Jon asked while Simons was lagging behind. Carla’s also kept farting which was quite amusing or would have been if I had not been directly behind it!

We were all glad to get off the horse after about 45 minutes. Everyone had pain in one area or another and I vowed yet again that I will never get on another horse as I do every time I get off a horse! We went back in for more Mares milk and started watching BBC news! The electrics are quite amazing really as they drape across the ceiling and the plug is hanging mid air. We got back in the car about 6pm just as the sun was setting. We hadn’t got far when we came across a Prius stuck in the stream. They asked for our help to tow it out which we did. It was now starting to get extremely cold again as it was dark and everything they tried seemed to budge the car only slightly. The rope kept snapping, the wire pulled the tow point off the car, the log used to lever the car snapped, the water was turning to ice and all the men were up to their shins in the water and they must have been numb. Eventually with Simon driving and the locals pushing the car was reversed out. We left and had to go through the woods where there was no road and through three more streams then finally and thankfully made it back to the road.

We got to the camp at 7.30pm and went straight to dinner with a brief loo stop in the extremely smelly toilets in the basement. Another 3 course meal and we retired to our Ger where the fire had gone out. Jon managed to revive the ashes and finally as the heat started to fill the Ger we managed to remove a few layers of clothes. Jon plugged the whole in the roof with a carrier bag and we spent the rest of the evening just enjoying the moment. We mutually agree that today is our favourite day so far.